Finishing necklines and cuffs

So this is how I attach necklines and cuffs. It involves a bit of maths, not too much though πŸ™‚ The general rule is that if you’re using cotton lycra for both the main item and the cuff you will need to cut the binding (that’s what I’m going to call the stuff even though I’m not doing a foldover binding method) at 0.8 times the length of the thing you are attaching it to. If you’re going to use fabric like ribbing you can cut it slightly shorter at 0.75 or even 0.7 times. You will have to do some tests and see what you like the look of. If you don’t cut the binding material shorter you will end up with saggy, loose and flappy necklines/ cuffs. Not a great look.

Start by measuring the thing you’re going to attach the binding to. In my case here it’s 20cm (10cm Β doubled)

Then work out what 0.8 times that length is. So for me it’s 20cm x 0.8 = 16cm. I’m going to cut it to 17cm to add a seam allowance, I want my finished binding to be 16cm so have to allow for it to be sewn together. The width of your neckline or cuffs will depend on what look you’re going for. Mine are normally around 3.8cm wide, that’s conveniently the same width as my ruler πŸ˜‰

Just a little tip, if you can’t figure out what the right side of a stretchy fabric is, you can just stretch it a bit and watch which way it curls, it will curl towards the right side πŸ™‚

Stitch the edge of the binding with the right sides together.

Then fold the binding wrong sides together, you should have a little circle like this. It’s then ready to pin to the thing you’re binding, either the neckline or arm cuff.

Pin your cuff or neckline binding onto the thing you’re binding with the right sides together. I like to do this with the garment inside out as I find it easier to control the stretch of the binding this way. You may not need too many pins if it’s just an arm cuff but if you’re doing a neckline you should use at least 4 pins, 1 at each quarter point. That way you will get an even stretch all the way round. You should have to stretch the binding to fit, if it fits perfectly without stretching then you know already you’re going to have a saggy cuff.

Then you want to stitch the band to the cuff/ neckline stretching the binding but not the neck or cuff itself as you go. I do this in the round. I’m not even going to talk about the other way now because I think of it as cheating and the finish isn’t as lovely. I might do a quick blog post at some point showing the other method if people really want.

Hopefully it should look like this once you’ve stitched them together πŸ™‚ this is inside out.

This is the right way round.

OOOOh look, a lovely snug fitting cuff πŸ™‚